How to: Install a car stereo

By Chad Lückhoff

Here's your step-by-step guide to installing a car stereo / head-unit / radio.

Music is a universal language and not much compares to the sensation when you find the right song for the piece of road you are on. That is of course if your radio allows you to enjoy it! Some will call it a stereo, others a head-unit, some are even called infotainment – whatever you call your entertainment system, it's an important part of enjoying your motoring experience.

Your stereo may be a little outdated, a bit tired or just lacking as a whole. You may be looking for better functionality, improved sound quality or a different way to connect to your music, and for this, you may be considering a  radio upgrade. While many may think that this is a job reserved for sound and security installation centres (and we will always recommend that a professional does the installation), there's no reason not to tackle this yourself.

You will need to ensure that the items you have will work with your car. Some cars have integrated systems that require the manufacturer's head-unit to remain in place while others have strange sizes, shapes and layouts that will, at best, require a special, vehicle specific, trim piece.

Before you get started, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery – this will help prevent an electrical fire from starting should two live wires touch or short against the chassis. Then, locate a radio removal guide for your specific car. This will help when it comes to removing the standard radio unit.

1.Gather all the items you will need for the install.

You will need the new head-unit and a matching cage – these are sometimes sold separately. You may also need an adapter harness if the ISO plugs do not match.

2. The right tools.

You will need basic tools for this project and a side cutter, soldering iron, heat shrink, and electrical tape may be required if you need to modify or join wires. You will also need removal tools for your car's radio. It's sometimes best to loan these as you will only be using them once.

3. Removing the factory unit.

This is very vehicle specific and we recommend looking up a tutorial or a guide as to how you should remove the one in your car. Don't just pull the unit out using brute force. You are looking to pry away the retaining clips (3b) and this is done by inserting a rod-like tool into the holes on the side of the head-unit (3c). There are also wires connected to the back so exercise caution.

4. Disconnecting.

Unplug the antennae (4a) and the molex / ISO plug on the rear (4b). This plug is usually held in place with a lock that will need to be pressed down before the plug can be pulled away from the head unit.

5. Cage installation.

With the factory unit out of the way, you can now insert the cage that will hold the new head-unit in place. The edge with a small lip on it will face outwards.

6. Securing the cage.

In order to prevent things from flying around, you will need to secure the cage in place. This is done by bending the tabs from the inside out so that they connect with the outer frame and the dashboard.

7. Plugging in.

If you are fortunate enough to have matching molex / ISO plugs, this step is simple and you can plug the car's wiring harness into the unit. If your car's harness uses a different plug, you may need an adapter harness or, worst case will have to splice into the wiring harness and match the colours. We recommend that only experienced hands try this one and it is best done according to a wiring diagram for your car along with heat shrink and electrical tape.

8. Plug in the aerial.

You may say that you won't ever listen to the radio, but trust me on this one, plug in the antennae cable in the corresponding socket.

9. Installing the head-unit.

With the wires plugged in, offer up the head-unit, taking care not to catch any wires between the cage and the unit. Tuck the wires back gently as you slide the unit in. If you are met with any resistance, pull the unit out again and check for obstructions. You should head the clips click into place when the unit is all the way home.

10. Attach the trim.

With the head-unit in place, you can offer up the trim piece that will hide the cage from view.

11. Powering up.

With all the connection made and the unit in place, you can reattach the negative terminal. Monitor the cabin for any signs of smoke before tightening the post down. With the post secured, you can now set up the unit according to the user manual.